November 7, 2009

EXPAT ON THE BEACH: TOPLESS ON BALI

I'm sure you've heard expats or tourists talk about the Indonesian island of Bali. How magical it is, this island of rice paddies and beaches, of temples and festivals, of smiles and serenity.

Bali has something for everyone. You can hide in the idyllic mountains and meditate and hope to levitate; you can cruise from temple to temple and catch a festival almost any day of the year; or you can party with the backpacker crowd, eat magic mushroom omelets, and hang out on the beach.


When my prince and I lived in Indonesia, on the main island of Java, we spent several weeks on Bali on vacation with our two young daughters. They weren’t into meditating or temple cruising, but the beach held great appeal. Balinese kids loved playing there too, as you can see on this photo, making not sand castles, but sand temples. Go figure. Anyway, come with us on our first day at the beach in Bali:



BALI BOSOMS

We’re off to the beach and daughter number one has proudly donned her new bikini. Her Oma in Holland, my mother, gave it to her as a present. She’s nine years old and teenage hormones have not yet stirred from slumber and started their magic in her girlish body. No curves in sight anywhere, no blossoming bosom. The bikini is a string bikini, tiny scraps of fabric covering not very much. But hey, she looks cute.

We're on a tourist beach near our hotel and there’s lots to look at. Vendors everywhere. You can buy drinks and dresses and sarongs and shells and jewelry and beach mats and secret stuff you don’t want to get caught with. And if you crave a massage, no problem. Coconut oil and the steely hands of a ancient granny are available right here in the sand. Or if you prefer a young male hunk, he’s available too.

I discern a potpourri of languages around me -- Australian and English and Swedish and Japanese and German. People of all sizes and shapes are roasting in the sun, many of the females wearing bikini bottoms only.

Me? I’m wearing an elegant one piece number. Not because I am prudish (I’m Dutch), but simply because I want to spare the world the view of my mid-section and the ravages of two pregnancies. (My man will roll his eyes when he reads this. He thinks I’m gorgeous. Love is so blind, don’t you agree?)

So, the girls are messing around in the sand and I’m studying my half-naked sisters nearby, realizing that Mother Nature is very creative if not always kind when it comes to size and shape. Still, whatever your figure, getting an even tan is a noble pursuit, so go for it, is what I say. And as I’m considering this, it occurs to me that daughter number one, although lavishly anointed with sunscreen, is going to end up with some unflattering little triangles on her flat-as-a-dime little-girl chest.

“Listen,” I say to her, “why don’t you take off your bikini top?”

She lifts her blond head. “Why?”

“You can get an even tan that way. See, lots of girls here are topless.”

She looks around at the various topless females. I see her study the plump British girl nearby whose generous breasts glow dangerously white in the tropical sun. My daughter glances back at me, her serious little face all sober contemplation.

“I can’t,” she says. “I’m too young to go topless.”

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Tell me a story, anything to do with kids and their bodies, swim suits, the beach, topless sunning, people watching. Bali!

October 31, 2009

EXPAT LIFE: TO MARKET, TO MARKET

Many expats and travelers enjoy wandering around in foreign markets to give them a feel for the culture of the country and discover treasures to buy. I trust you've taken careful notes and remember my post here of some months ago about my shopping excursion in the sprawling Makola Market in Accra, Ghana, West Africa and you'll remember all the wondrous things that can be procured in its many maloderous alleys (thunderstones, dried shrimp, fabric, beads, deep-fried turkey tails, etc.).

This time I want to take you along on a trip to the Vernissage, a fabulous flea market in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, a small country in the Caucasus Mountains. It is a market of a totally different character, which is not surprising as it is located on a different continent and has a different cultural flavor. I must apologize for not having an amusing or scary story to offer along the way, but perhaps the photos will make up for it.

The Vernissage is much more than an ordinary flea market. You can find new things and old things both, junk and real art, fakes and antiques and treasures of all kinds. Among the old items you'll find out-of-date electronics; spare parts from or for equipment or instruments your great-grandfather might have used; sepia photographs of ancient ancestors dead and forgotten; archaic medical and dental instruments resembling dangerous torture devices; vintage Soviet coins and memorabilia; and leftover lab chemicals as you can see on the photo below.


Leftover lab chemicals.

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New merchandise include arts and craft items, souvenirs, socks and sweaters, puppies with bows on their heads, glasses and dishes. The ones below are all blue because, you guessed it, they're underneath a blue umbrella.


Delicate teacups, gold-decorated teapots, fancy glassware.

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Little old ladies wander around in slippers selling pastries or beautifully crocheted thingies your great-grandmother used to put over the back and arms of chairs. Sadly we have no use for those in our contemporary houses.

And here are some more finds:


Hairdryers, mixers and thingamabobs.

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And something underfoot:

Carpets. Old ones, new ones, good ones, not so good ones.

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And for the mechanically inclined this artsy collection:

Ball bearings

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Need some art for your walls or shelves?

Paintings, carvings, sculptures, lots of stuff.

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And let's not forget the jewelry! So many stalls! So many lovely, odd and artsy adornments! I developed an addiction for the colorful pendants made of natural stone and set in silver. I could never walk past the many displays without admiring Mother Nature's designs. Here's what I ended up with:


Pendants and more pendants.

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And of course who can walk past these handbags and not buy one? Or two or three . . . They're handmade using pieces of old carpeting (or maybe new at times as well). This is my collection. I must admit, I seldom use them, but they look nice as a wall decoration in the hallway!


Carpet handbags

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This is, of course, only a small sampling of the marvels of the Vernissage. I have more to show you so we'll do another trip another time.

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So where else in the world have you found a great market? And what types of merchandise was/is for sale there? Something gorgeous or fun or weird or scary? What is the most unusual item you've ever bought in a market? Or has something interesting happened to you in a market? Make my day and tell me!